Last modified 10/27/2018
Having decided to visit Serbia, a rather unusual country for traveling, we were not going to limit ourselves to only the capital, but wanted to take a closer look at this small European country by visiting some suburbs.
We were more interested in places where you can go and return to sleep again in Belgrade to spend the night all the time in one place. But, of course, in Serbia there are places where you need to go overnight. Below is our list of places and descriptions of how best to get to them. And how to move around Serbia with useful links, you can read here.
As soon as you approach the fortress and see it from the Danube, its enormous scale will be clear. The fortress was built for a rather long time, almost 90 years and completed by 1780. Like all fortresses, ours is of defensive significance. There are many underground passages on the territory, with a total length of almost 16 kilometers. Pay special attention to the Clock Tower, located on the territory of the fortress.
It has its own peculiarity: a large hand shows hours, and a small one shows minutes. This is done so that the ships sailing along the Danube can clearly see the time. Also in various structures and houses on the territory of the fortress there are museums and exhibitions. From the fortress walls of Petrovaradin, beautiful views of the whole Novi Sad open.
You can reach the fortress in about 30 minutes, you will need to cross the Varadinsky bridge across the Danube. Or take buses 3A or 69 directly from the station.
Central Freedom Square
The central Freedom Square in the Old Town and the Cathedral of Our Lady. Almost the entire old city is a pedestrian zone.
In general, you can endlessly wander through the old colorful streets of Novi Sad, but all of them will lead you to the central square, where the most beautiful Cathedral of the Virgin Mary stands and a monument to the local writer and politician Svetozar Miletich.
Frushka Gora National Park
Near Novi Sad there is the Fruska Gora National Park, where you can not only see the unique flora and fauna of this area, but also the 16th century monasteries. As many as 16 buildings. Some are better preserved, while some are already in ruins. The nearest settlement is Vrzhnik, where one of the monasteries is located. From here you can start the journey.
It is more convenient to travel by car. You can rent a car for just 20 euros and drive everything quickly.
45 kilometers from Belgrade there is the town of Smederevo, where the Brankovich fortress is located, which is known as the largest fortress built on a plain in Europe. In the fortress itself you can climb for free, and to get into the interior you have to buy a ticket.
On the territory there are two churches and a water tower. Be sure to go to the main temple of the city - St. Peter's Basilica. Inside you can see unique murals.
Ski resort Zlatibor
Zlatibor. This is the ski resort of Serbia. It is already necessary to go here with an overnight stay. In one day you won’t turn into the capital. Right next to it is the ethnographic village of Sirogojno, which shows the life of the Serbian mountain people.
If you get by public transport, then a direct bus runs from Belgrade several times a day, or we go to Uzice, and there we already transfer to a bus to Zlatibor. Spend 5-6 hours on the way.
20 kilometers from Zlatibor there is Gostilė waterfall. If you travel by car, you can call.
Uzice is a medieval city with a medieval fortress. It can be reached by trains or buses from the capital. Spend about 4 hours on the road. Therefore, this is not a day trip.
Uzhitsky fortress stands on a hill above the city. One of the main attractions includes a hydroelectric station, which was developed by the famous physicist Nikola Tesla. And also in the city and near it there are many old railway tunnels.Quite an unusual attraction, but we advise you to find and explore a couple.
Topola: Church of St. George
Poplars. We learned about this city by chance. Initially, he was not on our route, but the locals told us to go here and we did not regret it. You can go here one day from Belgrade by bus. It is located only 80 kilometers from the capital. A small quiet calm town immediately disposes to itself. This city is known as the family city of the Karageorgievich dynasty (princely and royal dynasty of the rulers of Serbia). And the church of St. George, also known as Oplenats, is the family tomb.
Around the city there are a lot of vineyards. Be sure to try the local wine.
Kusturica Village (Drvengrad)
The village of Kusturica (Drvengrad), Mokra Gora, Sharganska octopus. Whatever you choose, you will come to one place. Perhaps this is the most hyped place in Serbia. And he is visited almost more often than the capital. And all thanks to the famous director who built the whole village for the film.
Now he has his own house there, where he sometimes comes. You can read more about this attraction and how to get to it here.
Ovcharsko-Kablar Gorge and its monasteries. 8 kilometers from the city of Cacak and 150 kilometers from Belgrade is one of the most beautiful places in the country - the gorge, in the middle of which the West Morava River flows, and where there is a whole complex of monasteries, also known as Small Serbian Athos.
You can get here by car or taxi.
Subotica. A city near the Hungarian border. Hence the mixture of languages, architecture, cuisine of the two countries. Very nice, cozy and interesting city. It is located 190 kilometers from Belgrade. The bus ride will take about three hours. By train 4.5 hours. But he walks only once a day.
There is also the old city, and the town hall, and monasteries, museums, cathedrals, and even the oldest national theater in Serbia.
Niche. The third largest city in Serbia. It is famous for the fact that the Roman emperor, Constantine, the founder of Constantinople was born here.
You can get here both by rail and by bus. Moreover, most passing transport is international. It also has its own airport.
Come here, of course, should also be overnight. The benefit of guest houses and hotels in the city is enough.
Of the attractions you should visit the Tower of Skulls (Chele Kula), within the walls of which were walled up the skulls of 952 Serbian warriors who did not want to surrender the city to the Turks. On the banks of the Nishara River is the Nish Fortress.
1) Belgrade fortress on Kalemegdan
Belgrade's most famous landmark is the fortress in the Kalemegdan park in the city center, where the Sava River flows into the Danube.
Although Kalemegdan is formally called only the park, this name was transferred by the efforts of the people to the fortress and the entire hill. Belgrade people love to collect autumn leaves here, dance, defile under the arm and kiss, sitting on the walls.
In the evenings on Kalemegdan they give the best sunsets in the city, in the mornings, when there are few people, pine alleys are teeming with squirrels. In the afternoon, the air rings over the chess tables - they are occupied by pensioners and arrange intellectual battles. At night, lovers and benches take place in love ... However, here's a sunset photo.
The first buildings on the hill appeared in the 1st century AD, the fortress was constantly being destroyed and rebuilt. Now on Kalemegdan you can not only look at the powerful surviving walls, fortifications and towers, but also visit War Museum, two churches, a large zoo and a children's dinosaur park. In addition, there are also cafe-restaurants, from whose terraces a gorgeous view of Belgrade and its rivers opens.
The cost of visiting: entrance to the park and the fortress on Kalemegdan is free, tickets to the museum, zoo and Dino Park are paid separately.
In pursuit of sunsets and views, no one notices two funny characters hiding near one of the shops - Eared Joku (ushati) and Uncle Glish (Chika Glish) What kind of uncles are these, and where do they live?
There are various rumors about the origin of Eared Jocky (read softly - Dzhoka). From fiction: poor, sad freak - this is the first Belgrade vampire. To believable: just some joker wanted to become a landmark of Belgrade and at night carved his portrait in stone.
One thing is clear: Kalemegdan eel appeared in the middle of the XX century.
Less is known about Uncle Glish, and I discovered him by accident when I was looking for Joka. I can assume that this is also someone’s joke, because chicha glish - a character of Serbian children's songs and coloring books, primitively painted little man in the style of "wands-circles".
If you want to get to know uncles, here is their address: the northern wall of the fortress (Danube side), right next to the mechmed source Mehmed Pasha Sokolovich.
Now it’s clear why disgust is written on Jokin’s face. Make you look at the trash bin day after day, and you would look like that.
Many more than once passed this statue: a naked young man, covered only by a carelessly thrown fishing net, thoughtfully strangles a snake. Meanwhile, Fisherman the fate of the hero of a classic Indian film - with the loss and gain of a twin brother, except without songs and dances.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the Serbian sculptor Simeon Roksandic, the author of the monument, sent him to an exhibition in London. After hitting the English with tubercles of muscle, Rybak sailed home on the ship, but did not swim - the sculptor was informed that the ship sank, and with it the statue.
Fortunately, Roksandich had a plaster mold, and he cast Rybak No. 2, which was almost identical to his older brother. But before the youngest bronze on her lips had time to dry, when the ship suddenly arrived with Rybak No. 1, it turned out that the sculptors were misinformed and there was no crash.
After dancing to celebrate this event, the happy twin father sold them to the Serbian and Croatian authorities. Since then, the brothers have been working as fountains in tourist places, one is a landmark of Belgrade, and the second is Zagreb.
Dozens of meters under the Fisherman and eared branches network of underground passages and rooms. Dug it in Roman, Austrian and Yugoslav times. Some places you can visit yourself or with the popular tour “Belgrade near Belgrade” by the writer Zoran Nikolic. Photos further - from the official site of the fortress.
For example, Roman well - a hefty tunnel with a depth of 51 m. The Austrians built it in the 18th century, but the Serbs, already accustomed to accidentally digging out the Empire’s legacy in their gardens, dubbed it accordingly by inertia. Ticket price - 120 dinars (1 euro).
Not the Hadron Collider, but the Roman Well
The Austrians also distinguished themselves by the construction of another attraction of Kalemegdan and Belgrade - Large powder warehouse. True, here they were again ruined by the ancient Romans, having pulled a blanket of glory over themselves: in the warehouse there is now an exhibition of Roman sculptures and sarcophagi. Ticket price - 200 dinars.
Military bunker it was built on Kalemegdan in 1948, when relations between the USSR and Yugoslavia cooled to the temperature of okroshka in Oymyakonsky. The Serbian government was afraid of Soviet missiles and ordered to build shelter in a strategically important place. By the mid-1950s, relations between our countries had become warmer, and fortunately, the bunker never had to be used. Ticket price - 100 dinars.
2) Street of Prince Michael
If Kalemegdan is the heart of Belgrade, then Prince Michael Street - The adjacent artery, important and famous. Knez Mikhailova or, as our emigrants called her, Stas-Mikhailova (simply by consonance) is a pedestrian zone framed by historic buildings with galleries, cafes and shops.
The locals get an invaluable opportunity to stare at crowds of foreigners over a cup of coffee, tourists get their bags filled with Serbian souvenirs, and together they walk back and forth, mixing Belgrade air. It is empty and deserted only in the early morning.
While circulating along Knez Mikhailova, passers-by carefully bypass the central street pyramid. According to official statements, the figure stands here to show the geographical coordinates of Belgrade - it shows the cardinal points, the height of the city above sea level, latitude and longitude.
But some historians and journalists are sounding the alarm: this pyramid is not simple, but Masonic, with a cut off top. Indeed, if you look, for example, at a dollar bill, you can see the classic Masonic symbol - a pyramid with a tip floating in the air.
True, the Belgrade pyramid lacks the All-Seeing Eye. Conspirologists only nod: the Masons and Masons, so as not to be fooled. And the free masons did not sign the pyramid, but they hid it inventively three eyes at once in the windows of the building of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts.
Masonic eyes far-fetched. Used photo from alo.rs
The symbolism of the pyramids on the street - one of the main attractions of Belgrade - can be trusted or not. One thing is certain: Masonic thread has been woven more than once in the outline of Serbian history.
3) Republic Square and a monument to Prince Mikhail
Prince Michael Street running through the center hurts sideways Republic Square. In Serbian, it is called Trg Republic, and I won’t be surprised if you can’t pronounce the first word at once - there are no vowels in it.
But on the square itself there are many interesting things: the National Museum, the Cultural Center, the National Theater and the monument to Prince Mikhail on a horse, near which Belgrade people meet. Moreover, even a monument was erected and to the princemake an appointment "At the horse" (code), which is somewhat unfair to the august person.
Note: in the summer of 2018, reconstruction of the Republic Square began, and it will be blocked for another year. You can go to the buildings, but the view is no longer the same as in the photo.
Ominous Istanbul Gate
Many contemporaries do not suspect that the site of the beautiful and bright building of the National Theater once stood ominousIstanbul Gate. They were built, again, by the Austrians in the first half of the 18th century, and they got the name of the gate, because the path to Istanbul ran through them. And before them, the Turks were planted on a count of rebel Serbs.
The arch has acquired a bad reputation and has become a symbol of the suffering of the Serbian people under the yoke of the Ottoman Empire. Therefore, in 1866, Prince Mikhail ordered the gates to be razed to the ground, and a couple of years later, two steps from the frontal place, the construction of the theater began - a new attraction of Belgrade instead of the gloomy gate.
Monument to Prince Mikhail
At the monument to Prince Mikhail, like Rybak, there are a couple of relatives, though of a much more noble origin.
To adequately perpetuate the image of the prince in bronze, the Belgrade invited the Italian sculptor Enrico Pazzi. He, without thinking twice, was inspired by the statues of Ferdinando and Cosimo Medici in Florence and began to create.
Medici Monuments in Florence - “Relatives” of Prince Michael
The finished monument really looked like the Medici - posture, pedestal and other features. But Belgrade was struck by something else: there was no headdress on the prince!
In those days, decent statues of commanders were supposed to wear at least a purely symbolic hat. The bare head shocked the townspeople so much that they burst into gossip and even attributed the suicide of shame to the sculptor to the monument. In fact, the Pazzi returned to Italy and, without a mustache, lived to a very old age.
Having devoted so much attention to the hat, Belgrade almost did not notice (and even now almost do not notice) an important detail. On a pedestal, under a block with scenes from Serbian history, there are 6 plates with the names of cities.
These are Belgrade, Smederevo, Kladovo, Soko, Uzice and аabac - the cities that the prince’s diplomacy - with or without a hat - helped to free from the Turks.
4) Skadarskaya street
War is war, and lunch is scheduled: when you go sightseeing in Belgrade, take a look at Skadar street (or "Scadarlius"). Here you can combine business with pleasure - to touch another layer of history and indulge in the most famous restaurants of the city.
There was once a poor gypsy settlement in the place of Skadarliya, but after 1870 it gained a new life. Artists, writers, poets, actors and simply entrepreneurial citizens flocked here, who changed the region beyond recognition.
Interesting Skadarliya: 1. wandering Actor, 2. Poet Jura Jakšić near his house, 3. Chesma spring at the end of the street - a copy of the sesame from Sarajevo.
Cozy tavern kafans quickly grew like mushrooms, where in the evenings they gathered urban bohemia. The street was paved with cobblestones, planted with sprawling trees, and Skadarliya became famous as the center of excellent cooking, creativity, live music, communication and fun.
Some contemporaries wave their plugs upset and complain that Skadarliya is no longer the same. Only the facade has remained of bohemianism, and there are places in Belgrade where you can dine cheaper and tastier. In some ways they are right, but you should definitely turn up here - listen to the “Old Town” songs, take a walk along the pavement, try the Serbian cuisine and cut a piece of a drunken Skadarlian evening into your plate.
In Kafan Ima dana they decided to recall the regulars of Skadarliya in a special way - by drawing them. The cream of Belgrade bohemia is watching the eaters with emotion. And who knows, if you eat with appetite and shine with talents, maybe your portrait will one day decorate the walls of the restaurant.
One of the most colorful visitors to kafans (and other Skadarli institutions) is the fortuneteller Lubitz and drummer Cholet.
They say that Lubitz predicted Margaret Thatcher that she would become prime minister. The iron lady thanked the fortuneteller and promised to call for an inauguration, but the invitation never reached the Scadarlian mailboxes.
Real photos of Lyubitsa and Cholet, along with photographs of other noteworthy visitors, hang at the entrance to the kafana
But Cholet surprised Rockefeller himself: when a rich man, having tasted the brandy enjoying traditional live music at the Three Sheshira restaurant, decided to make the drummer happy with generous tips, he approached Rockefeller and whispered: “I am a rich man, and tonight I will sleep peacefully on a bench. How will you sleep? ”
Whether the tycoon of the musician understood how he reacted and how he slept that night, the story is silent about this.
5) Hotel "Moscow"
Hotel Moscow in the center of Belgrade looks as if a flock of ladies in elegant hats are about to fly out of its doors and, rattling their beads and waving lace gloves, will seed at the nearby pizzeria.
It sounds strange, but “Moscow” was designed by Petersburgers - a group of architects from St. Petersburg led by Serb Jovan Ilkich. The building was built in 1908, which is eloquently evidenced by the modern look of the hotel - curlicues, fixtures, turrets, bas-reliefs and the noble green color of the roof.
The hotel became not just a hotel, but also a real attraction of Belgrade: over the years of its existence, many famous and influential people have stayed in it - politicians, actors, musicians (and in total, more than 40 million guests).
Ordinary mortals can also spend the night here - prices for a modest double start from 100 euro / day. What is not so expensive for a hotel with history, location and magnificent interior.
Even simpler mortals can take a nap in a spacious cafe on the ground floor of the hotel and drink coffee with branded cherry-pineapple cake “Moscow-Schnitt” for 4 euros.
While visitors drive teas and coffees in the hotel’s patisserie, solid pumps diligently chasing water in his basement. Despite the fact that “Moscow” is built on a hill, groundwater mysteriously flows from all sides and up, flooding the building.
This unpleasant feature was already discovered during the construction of the hotel, and the Belgrade had to urgently think out how to plug the gushing firmament.82 five-meter wooden beams, 30 wagons of iron, 10 wagons of granite and marble were brought for the foundation, and this splendor was covered with a 2.2-meter-thick concrete slab.
But “Moscow” was leaking anyway, in the 70s the wayward Belgrade water leaked through the walls so much that it flooded the basement a meter. In order not to tarnish the hotel’s reputation completely, it was decided install pumps. They are still there, working diligently for the benefit and dryness of the hotel business.
More interesting facts about the Moscow Hotel:
- this is the only hotel in Belgrade in which there is no apartment number 13,
- during the Second World War, the main headquarters of the Gestapo was located here,
- in the 70s, one high-ranking guest, whose name was not called, arrived in Moscow with his own herd of camels. The animals were placed in a nearby park and milked every morning, and milk was taken to the hotel kitchen. There they boiled it, cooled it and carried it to a gourmet guest. All have their own little weaknesses.
6) The building of the People's Assembly (National Parliament)
I don’t know why, but looking specifically at the building of the People’s Assembly (the National Parliament of Serbia), many tourists say that Belgrade is like Berlin.
The Parliament was built for almost 30 years, completed in 1936, and the Russian architect Nikolai Krasnov also took part in the design. On both sides of the main staircase there are statues - reared horses and their tamers - reminding me personally of St. Petersburg horses on Anichkov bridge.
Looking across the street to the Parliament building Old palace - a rich mansion of the dynasties of Obrenovichi and Karageorgievichi.
Batal Jamiya Mosque
Sometimes you can’t believe what changes can fall to the lot of an ordinary piece of land. Until the second half of the XIX century, on the site of the Parliament building stood Turkish mosque Batal Jamiya.
Pattern: Wikimedia commons
The construction began in the 16th century by Einehan Beg, and at that time the mosque became famous as the largest building in Serbia and an unusual attraction in Belgrade. But years passed, the capital passed from hand to hand, they fired at the chapel, used it as a warehouse, and two centuries later its condition became completely deplorable.
Then the name arose "Batal Jamia" (battle - abandoned, tour.). The Turks offered to restore the mosque, but the Serbs were against it, because this could strengthen Ottoman influence and power.
The public offered to remake Batal Jamia in the National Museum of Serbia or the library, but in the end, by order of the military leader Blaznavets, in 1869 (or 1878) the mosque was destroyed, and a little later they built the Assembly building in its place.
Observation tower from Macedonia
A plain bunch of boulders across the road from Parliament is deprived of the attention of passers-by. Only from time to time here come the screams of parents: Milos, son, do not climb stones - you will come back! But this "heap" is not easy - just the case when the mountain itself comes to a person.
Or, more precisely, when a person himself brings the mountain to other people.
During World War I, the Serbian army defeated the Bulgarian on a ridge Kaimakchalan in Macedonia. To perpetuate the victory, the Serbs decided to bring to their homeland observation tower, with which the generals surveyed the expanses.
The tower was dismantled to the smallest pebble and, either with hands or with carts, was lowered from the peak of St. Elijah with a height of 2524 meters, and then delivered to Belgrade. Let me remind you: the beginning of the XX century, 550 kilometers to the capital, there are no construction vehicles, roads, trucks and courier services.
In Belgrade, the appearance of the tower was recreated in detail, it was installed in the Pioneer Park opposite the Parliament and plates with the Serbian generals depicted on them who participated in the First World War were added.
7) Tashmaydan park and churches
If, running from one attraction of Belgrade to another, you are tired of the stone and want to listen to the rustling of birds and the singing of leaves, look at ... a stone field. Green Tashmaydan park in the city center got its name from the Turks (taş - a rock, meydan - field, tour.), Appropriated quarries, which were once developed by the Romans here.
Now in place of the quarry there is a chic, well-groomed park with St. Mark's Church, as if hovering over trees.
On Tashmaydan you can walk, play sports (there are treadmills, street exercise machines and a pool), breathe air on benches, study the strange statues of famous personalities and the unknown fruits of the sculptors' imagination. And watch a movie - in the summer they organize free film festivals in the open air here.
The coffin of Wrangel and the scarf of Tsarevich Alexei
Near the side of the monumental church of St. Mark, a tiny temple of the Holy Trinity (or, as it is also called,) Russian church) It was built in 1924 according to the project of architect Valery Stashevsky for white emigrants who rushed to Serbia after the October Revolution.
At the consecration of the temple was attended by Baron Wrangel himself. Five years later, he died from tuberculosis in Brussels, and his ashes were transferred to the Russian Church in Belgrade.
Baron Wrangel is buried in the church. Photo: ekspres.net
In the temple of the Holy Trinity there is also a flap. Shawls of Tsarevich Alexei, which he received as a gift from his sisters and loved to wear. After the execution of the Romanov family, the White Guard sent a shawl, along with other things that remained, to Tsar Nikolai’s sister in London.
Years later, one of the shawl flaps, passing through many indifferent hands, ended its journey in Belgrade.
Caves of Tashmaydan
Tashmaydan is riddled with underground passages and caveslike cheese with holes. And only recently they were officially turned into a landmark of Belgrade - they began to let visitors there.
In this “cheese”, the townspeople have been hiding for centuries from enemy attacks, and the young hooligan also from retaliation for theft (and so did the hip-hop slang - read the article about it).
Dungeon Park. Photo: blic.rs
One of the caves is completely concreted - this is the German "legacy". During the Second World War, the Nazis chose Tashmaydan and adapted the catacombs to their needs: they built an elevator and an electric generator, conducted a telephone and a ventilation system. In such an autonomous underground citadel, 600 soldiers and officers could take refuge.
8) Church of St. Sava
Once the sky split over Belgrade. One of its fragments fell to the ground and turned into blue and white temple of St. Sava - the largest Orthodox church in the Balkans.
The official version, however, states that the temple began to be built in 1935, on the site where the Turks burned the relics of a very revered saint in Serbia - Archbishop Sava. The construction was interrupted more than once for various reasons - bureaucratic and military.
In 2004, the temple was finally completed, its height was 82 meters, and it can accommodate 10 thousand believers. Work is still underway on interior decoration, by the way, with Russian support: dozens of our restorers and artists participated in creating the mosaic for the dome. But Gazprom allocated over four million euros for this.
And again, under the sights of Belgrade, is the "secret chamber" - vaulted gold crypt an area of 2 thousand square meters.
Here the patriarchs of the Serbian Orthodox Church will be buried, and now they are conducting various cultural events. And, of course, services - in the crypt is the church of St. Prince Lazarus.
9) Old Zemun
Zemun - Belgrade's charming old district- Belgrade say.
Zemun is a charming old town, - their zemunians insistently correct.
The fact is that once Zemun was considered a separate city, but, with the growth and swelling of the capital, Belgrade sucked it into itself and reduced it to the "district". Indigenous people categorically disagree with this and in informal conversations demonstrate moderate separatism: "Zemun is not Belgrade, do not cling to it."
Zemun house with a sundial
Tourists, however, have this debate on the drum: Zemun is interested in them as one of the great attractions of Belgrade. And they like to compare it with Riga or Tallinn: touching old houses, red tiled roofs, cobbled streets and a special atmosphere, which is so inherent in cozy European towns.
However, Zemun is in desperate need of a good cosmetic repair. The city district lacks gloss, the plaster peels off the buildings like husks from new potatoes, and the cobblestone pavement blows bubbles right under the feet of stumbling pedestrians.
But still, be sure to set aside at least half a day to wander through the hunchbacked Zemun streets. And, of course, look at the main attractions of the area, these are:
1. gardosh tower (other names - Millennium Tower, Janko Sibinyanin Tower) on a hill. A 36-meter-high tower was built in the 19th century, and if you climb to the very top, you can ride over a magical view of Belgrade, Zemun, the Danube and the Big Military Island. Ticket price - 200 dinars.
True, almost the same view opens at the foot of the tower, where you can go for free. And if your legs are bent after walking along the hills, take a break in one of the cafes on the plateau.
Gorgeous view from the Gardosh hill. I cut the photo a little bit, because a thick cable hangs on the left and spoils the whole raspberry
2. Zemunskaya embankment. A long, several-kilometer promenade along the Danube. On the one hand - the old and new Zemun, on the other - the river and "rafting" - water-based platforms with restaurants and bars. In the summer, a pontoon bridge is thrown across the Danube, and on it you can go to the Bolshoi military island with a beach and camping.
And no “Neva chained in granite”, everything is very nonparadise and close to nature. You sit on the cafe terrace and watch the river run endlessly, fish splash, water snakes wriggle, and birds hover over all this living creature and try to devour it.
Speaking of birds: dozens of shameless swans graze in the northern part of the embankment. They stray into organized groups and beg for food from passers-by. Those admire the birds, feed them with their hands and take pictures. But beware: your mimimeter can go off scale, and the swan can grab at the finger.
It was very, very difficult for me to single out just a couple of unusual facts about Zemun, because he was literally stuffed with raisins, like a butter bun. I'll try to pick out the two sweetest:
Lagums - Underground Dips
You already realized that Belgrade is a two-level city, and that its underground part is not much less under heaven. Zemun, of course, is no exception: under his bridge doze off lagumi - dips, voids, caves and passages. Not to be confused with lagoons!
UNDERGROUND Zemun. Photo: undergrad.rs
Some of the catacombs were dug by the Romans or Austrian hard workers, and some were mother nature. Some lagums have not yet been studied and can be dangerous. So, in 1988, three Zemun streets almost whistled at a lagum of 440 square meters. The situation was saved only by an emergency pumping of voids with concrete.
But this story is scary (although it ended, fortunately, safely). But the romantic story happened in the middle of the 20th century, and it is connected with the lagoons under the abandoned villa Vukoichich (now “Villa Dunav”):
In the 30s, a wealthy merchant by last name Vukoichich built a house on the banks of the Danube - as it turned out, right above the lagoons. He found great use in the late afternoon: he opened a semi-legal weaving factory and an illegal vinyl shop there.
When after the Second World War the communists came for Vukoichich, he asked them to let him humanly dress before being arrested. The officers generously agreed to wait for him at the door, but the merchant was in no hurry to leave.
The officers burst into the house - and inside there was only a draft walking, laughing maliciously. A passage in secret corridorthat led to the riverbank. Their murdered colleague was lying there, and fragments of rope lying around him.
Vukoichich prepared a boat for retreat in advance, fled and left for Brazil, where there are a lot of wild Abyzis. From there, according to legend, every year he sent postcards to "the one who lives in my house."
The villa was turned into a restaurant "Danube" (Danube), but then it fell into disrepair. Now the building belongs to an enthusiast who wants to restore it one day.
128 steps in the Zemun (Belgrade) region of Kalvaria, for a long time they were ordinary gray plates.The tourist did not walk on them, did not click the shutter of the camera. All that remained of the stairs was with an inaudible lonely groan pouring into the city.
But in 2016, a group of young Zemunians led by Nenad Hegedish decided to breathe life into the steps. For six months they poured over the thresholds of the administration, finally got permission, pounced on the stairs in a creative impulse and turned it into another unusual attraction of Belgrade.
The guys collected funds for materials themselves, they themselves wiped the steps with brushes and painted them, installed garbage cans and an information board.
After 3 weeks, 128 names of famous Serbian writers, artists, scientists, athletes and politicians who have ever lived or worked in Zemun flaunted on the steps.
The updated staircase was given a hybrid name - Kalvarice (name of the region of Kalwaria + degree - steps). Now she, of course, is still crumbling, but she is already doing it merrily and not in splendid isolation: the tourist actively popped into the area.
10) Parks Topchider and Koshutnyak
Belgrade Topchider and Koshutnyak are like parks in Pushkin and Pavlovsk near St. Petersburg. They are nearby, but are unlike each other.
Topchider - a respectable small park, trimmed in French fashion, with symmetrical flower beds and lawns, sculptures and a strict church.
Citizens pace on Topchider decorously and calmly. Brides drag grooms to be photographed on bridges. Children drag mothers to ride a carriage drawn by phlegmatic ponies. Mothers are trying to drag their husbands away from beer glasses in a restaurant nearby.
The famous landmark of Topchider (and Belgrade) - Palace of Prince Milos Obrenovic (Konak Knesos Milos), built in the XIX century. For a small fee, you can visit it.
In front of the palace, sighing heavily in the wind, it grows burly old plane tree.
Plane tree is more than 160 years old, and he himself can not keep his branches on the weight. Therefore, the Serbs carefully gave the tree 17 metal crutches. The volume of the plane’s “waist” is 7.5 meters, but it is not steamed about the thickness, professes stem-positive and only increases kilograms of wood to the delight of Belgrade residents.
Located next door giant park Koshutnyak - This is a landscape informal, 330 hectares of slightly combed botanical diversity.
There are no flower beds and palaces here, but there is a very beautiful, noble, thinned forest. In the fall, it is painted in such colors that the air gets stuck in the lungs and agrees to come out only in the form of an enthusiastic squeak.
However, in the park Koshutnyak is good at any time of the year. You can walk, fry kebabs, play tennis and football, run along the new spring path, swim in the outdoor and indoor pools, practice on the street exercise machines and just enjoy forest therapy: here there is a feeling that the city is far away and not true.
An undeservedly forgotten part of Topchider Park hides behind tram tracks, wasteland and rock. it quarry "Machine Maidan" and Summer Topscoring scene.
Until the 20s of the last century, stone was mined for the construction of Belgrade villas, and the quarry was named after the owner - Masha Dimich. In 1947, the Yugoslavs ennobled the abandoned quarry with the construction of the Summer Theater Stage, trying to decorate it in a medieval style.
The gates of an enchanted dragon cave in medieval Britain? - No, a stylized door in the Topchidera quarry in Belgrade
For the first time in Yugoslavia, the opera Aida was staged, and in the best of times 2,000 spectators came to watch the performances.
Due to unclear circumstances, the scene was no longer taken care of ... In our time, its only visitors are climbers, cats and lizards. And bored teens, of course.
The city administration has long been planning to reanimate the theater in the quarry, but still can not solve the problems either with the owners or with tenants in this place. I keep my fists and in the forefront I’ll run for tickets if the stage can still be revived to life.
You can get to the Summer Scene and the Quarry Machine on tram number 3. Get off at the Topchiderska Shameful stop, follow the signs for the Topchiderats restaurant and go through the restaurant courtyard. The waiters only nod to you affably, even if you don’t have dinner with them - you are not the first, and you are not the last one to stomp to the Topchidera scene.
In the photo is NOT a passage to the scene, it is on the other side. This is just a cool arch in the walls of a quarry.
The inconspicuous places of Koshutnyak
As for Koshutnyak, there are quite a few little-known places that seem to be in sight, but somehow escape their eyes. For example, here is this small fenced piece of land in the back of the park - place of the assassination of Prince Mikhail Obrenovich (the one whose monument stands on Republic Square in the center of Belgrade).
The place where the prince was killed. On the reverse side of the fence is attached a commemorative plate.
Or hajduchka chesma - Gaidutsky spring, well-maintained unknown by whom and unknown when. But he became famous for having the most disruptive rock concerts in Yugoslavia with tens of thousands of listeners (hmmm, how did they all fit in there?).
In the upper part of Koshutnyak, on the border with the urban zone, stands sad marble pyramid, which only the reinforcing exoskeleton protects from the final decay.
I could not decipher the inscription on the pyramid (except for the word HELDEN - "heroes")
This is the main monument on ravaged German cemetery beginning of XX century. During World War I, the Germans began to attack Belgrade. The Serbs then made a real feat: 39 people fought for two days with a whole regiment and fell on the battlefield, taking with them 200 German souls.
The German field marshal was so impressed by the courage of the Serbs that he ordered them to be buried with the Germans and a monument was erected to the heroes of both countries. Perhaps this is the only cemetery in the world where the enemies were given the same honors as their soldiers.
The inscription on the Serbian plate: "Serbian heroes rest here." On a German plate: "Cemetery of German heroes."
When the Second World War thundered, the Germans, now Nazis, began to bury their fallen to their predecessors on Koshutnyak. After the liberation of Belgrade, the Yugoslav command gave the order to clear the country of the traces of occupation - and like a hurricane swept through the cemetery. Everything that the army did not destroy was taken away by the townspeople: gravestones were perfect for arranging their houses and courtyards.
As a result of such cleaning, there was literally no stone left on the cemetery, and it was quietly overgrown with weeds, until in 1985 Helmut Kohl paid a visit here. After that, the grass was trimmed, and at least it became possible to approach the plates. In 2014, the Serbian authorities came up with a restoration plan, for which they proposed to allocate as much as 40 million dinars. In 2018, however, the cemetery looks like the photographs above.
Let's get away from this gloomy topic. Memento, of course, Mori, but still Carpe Diem. There are places with much more positive energy in the Koshutnyak park. For example, Cafe “Aleksandar-club” with unbanal view of Belgrade.
It is located on a hill from which a short gently sloping ski run descends (ski stasis) Just a few years ago, when global warming was not yet so raging over the Balkans, whole families rode around here merrily.
Now the climate does not allow such fun, because now in winter families warm themselves by the fireplace, drinking mulled wine behind the large glasses of the Alexander Club, and in the summer they sit on its spacious open area.
11) Aeronautics Museum
A large puck-shaped building, resembling a UFO on a stand, glistens in the sun right next to the Belgrade airport. it Aeronautics museum, another Belgrade attraction, where beyond 600 dinars You can see and feel the unique collection of aircraft of different times and peoples.
Photo: Dungodung / Wikimedia Commons
In total, the museum has collected more than 200 exhibits, of which 60 are shown to visitors. Among the latter, for example:
- a copy of the first touching Serbian airplane Sarich-1 (made up of wood and fabric in 1910),
- Oluj-11 - the first armed Serbian aircraft,
- the famous military aircraft of the Second World War: Spitfaer, Yak-3, Il-2, Messerschmitt Me-109, and I list them so importantly, as if I understand aviation technology.
Looking at the elegant attack aircraft and helicopters, visitors do not pay attention to the black, twisted pieces of metal in one of the windows. And these pieces are of great importance to the Serbs.
The remains of the Night Falcon. Photo: Marko-M / Wikimedia Commons
In 1999, during the bombing of Yugoslavia by NATO forces, the American government imposed on Serbia its The Night Falcon. It was the most famous, vaunted F-117A invisible fighter, and before invading the Balkan sky, it was considered invincible.
However, the locals miraculously found him and shot down with the help, presumably, of a Soviet missile launcher (the pilot managed to eject, if that). After that, a brief desperate fun took possession of the Serbs, they whipped up posters with a photo of a fighter and a joke: “Sorry, we did not know that it was invisible,” and gave the remains of the plane to the Aeronautics Museum.
The administration of the museum flaunted part of the mortal carcass of the Falcon, and hid the rest of the fragments to sell them to famous foreigners and ordinary visitors piece by piece. What to do - extra money will not hurt the museum.
12) Avala Mountain and TV Tower
Millions of years ago, a volcano studiously puffed in the center of Serbia. The years have taken their toll, it has gone out, and now it's ordinary hillside Avala 511 meters high, located 16 kilometers from the center of the capital.
Avala - one of the most famous sights of Belgrade, its silhouette crowned with a needle tv tower, recognizable from afar and at any time of the day (at night the tower is effectively illuminated).
The 200-meter tower has a second incarnation: the first was destroyed by NATO bombs in 1999. For 300 dinars from the nose you can climb to the round observation deck at the top and, struggling with a strong windfall, look at Belgrade and the surrounding area. And from our window intact Srbija visible.
A floor above is a small cafe where you can drink coffee with the same types, but without the participation of the wind.
The second "peak" of Avala is imprinted with monumental Monument to an unknown hero authorship of the Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. The mausoleum is dedicated to soldiers who died in the First World War.
The mausoleum is a monument to an unknown hero. Photo: Mikhailo-Јovanoviћ / Wikimedia Commons
In addition, on the top of the mountain there is a couple of cafes and a place for barbecue - Belgrade people like to come here on the weekend to relax in nature and goofing around. And the sides and foot of Avala - this is a dense forest with dozens of walking paths - I do not want to walk.
In season, a tourist bus runs directly to the top from the center of Belgrade, while the rest of the time there is regular city transport to the base.
At the top of Avala there used to be an ancient and beautiful fortress остьrnov (or рrnovan), and the mountain itself was called the same. The first fortifications were built here by the Romans, then the Serbs on that foundation erected a serious citadel, and the Turks, having recaptured it from the latter, expanded and fortified the castle even more.
So pastoral once looked like the top of Mount Avala. Image: “рrnov, Serbian Avalon” - Radovan Damjanovic
Over time, the fortress was abandoned, and it began to collapse, but still had every chance to survive until the era of tourism. Imagine what a significant attraction of Belgrade it could become.
The ruins of the fortress новrnov on Aval. Drawing by Felix Kanitsa / Wikimedia Commons
But in 1934, for some reason, the king of Yugoslavia Alexander I Karageorgievich gave the order to blow up Zhrnov, and to provide the vacated area with the imagination of the sculptor Meshtrovich.
Neither a piece, nor a lump, nor a log from the old fortress was left. Why the king needed to destroy such a valuable object is still not known. Historians put forward various theories:
- Alexander could think that the fortress is a Turkish legacy.Then the undermining of Zhrnov is based on a certain patriotic logic.
- on the contrary, Alexander was an ardent supporter of "Yugoslavia" - the idea of the superiority of the community of the Balkan peoples over one separate. And Zhrnov was a symbol of "Serbism" and disdained the ideas of the king.
- King Alexander I and sculptor Ivan Meshtrovich were Freemasons, and "sacrificing Zhrnov" was their cunning plan. Avala is a mountain of pyramidal form (Masonic symbol), to lay the first stone in the foundation of a new monument, the king came with a silver hammer in his hand (symbol), the mausoleum itself is also a pyramid, a copy of the tomb of King Cyrus in Iran, and around it is also full of incomprehensible symbols.
The construction of the Monument to the Unknown Hero, of course, was necessary. The mausoleum with sculptures of women in traditional clothing of different Balkan peoples symbolized the unity of Yugoslavia. But because of him, the Serbs lost a very ancient and beautiful castle ...
So, these were the 12 main attractions of Belgrade. After looking at their photos and reading the description, decide for yourself who you join - to belgradeophiles or belgradeophobia. And come - it's better to see once than read a hundred times.
- Oh my God! Yes, what a little Vienna it is! - Glafira Semenovna was surprised, looking out of the carriage window at the passing places. - Recently in a carriage a brunette with glasses said that Belgrade is a small Vienna. It’s not at all like Vienna! Belgrade does not even resemble them to our Tver.
1897, N. Leikin, “A humorous description of the journey of the Ivanov spouses through the Slavic lands to Constantinople”
Belgrade Attractions - Short List
Finally, a short list of the main attractions of Belgrade with their secrets:
1) Fortress on Kalemegdan
- eared uncles
- twin fisherman
- underground passages and rooms
2) Street of Prince Michael
3) Republic Square and the prince on horseback
- ominous istanbul gate
- monument to the prince without a hat, but with six cities
4) Skadarskaya street
- fortuneteller and drummer portraits
5) Hotel Moscow
6) Parliament building
- Batal Jamiya Mosque
- observation tower from Macedonia
7) Tashmaydansky park
- Baron Wrangel and the shawl of Tsarevich Alexei
- Tashmaydan caves
8) Church of St. Sava
9) Old Zemun
- underground "lagums" and escape to Brazil
- colorful staircase
10) Parks Topchider and Koshutnyak
- quarry and summer scene
- the place of the murder of the prince and the Gaidut spring
- ravaged German cemetery
- cafe with unbanal view of the city
11) Aeronautics Museum
- seen and shot down an invisible fighter
12) Avala Mountain and TV Tower
- Mysteriously blasted fortress Zhrnov
Bar flea market. The interior is full of all kinds of trifles and absurdities: dolls, boots with flowers, rusty plates - in short, trash. It is very crowded, three or four people will disperse with difficulty. There is a second floor, which you can climb only sideways. The owner is an elderly man, visitors are also his peers mainly. They drink coffee, smoke, read the press and discuss politics. Located on the corner of Strahinjića Bana / Dositejeva.
A cozy and proper mix of three very important things in the world: cats, books and tea. Two wonderful affectionate cats live here. They even have their own crib. But, it seems, they more prefer the knees of visitors, tables and bookshelves. Apropo has a large selection of tea, which you can either drink here from fancy teapots, or buy specialty varieties home. My favorite is herbal tea Bakina bašta (grandmother’s garden), which consists of apple slices, organic hibiscus, chokeberry, blackcurrant, raspberry, blackberry, strawberry and, quite unexpectedly, beets. And for tea, you can order handmade cookies, there is even with lavender. Apropo has a great selection of books. There is a lot of Russian classics, but, of course, in Serbian. And there is a special shelf where you can leave some kind of your book and take any (only from this shelf, of course) completely free of charge. Address: Cara Lazara 10.
A bar in the underpass on Terazije Square, right under the first skyscraper in Eastern Europe - the Chamber of Albania. Not the most sterile place in Belgrade, in fact it is a punk bar. It gathers urban marginalized and over-age informals. "Maniac" is open all night, so people come here to "catch up" after closing the rest of the institutions, which work mainly until midnight. It is fun. Caution: very smoky and noisy!
The usual antique shop on Vuka Karadžića Street suffered losses and was bent. Until the management decided to open a bar in it. Now you can sit lounging in old armchairs and drink Zaechearsko for 130 dinars - very cheap here. If you liked the chair, then you can buy it. And it seems that such a move worked - in the evenings there are almost no places. I advise you to take a look when you walk along Prince Michael. It is a stone's throw away.
Lorenzo & kakalamba
Definitely the most unusual place in the city. The restaurant owners decided to bet on a nuclear combination of everything: Florentine and Pirot cuisine, kitsch and BDSM in the interior, impeccable and eccentric service. Dancing Lenin, flamboyant chairs, paintings by Botero, Santa Claus with a newspaper on the toilet, a glass floor, under which the kitchen is visible and the cooking process and countless other details that attract attention. This is not a restaurant, but some kind of attraction. Everything is so strange that you never cease to be surprised at what is happening. Intrigued? Go see for yourself. The prices here are slightly higher than the average Belgrade, but they are quite consistent with the dishes and the place itself. You can study the menu in detail and get an idea of the interior before the trip on the restaurant website. You will also find the address there.
Did you fly to Belgrade for the weekend or is it just a transit point of the Balkan travel - it does not matter: our guide should help you choose from the abundance of places to visit only the most relevant for 2017.
In writing great guides, we are often helped by locals, connoisseurs of places and cultural features. Vasily Yakovenko has been living in Belgrade for two years, has been doing business and is conducting a guide project on the Serbian capital “BEOGRAAANIN”.
Knez Mikhailova Street
The most tourist street of Belgrade, “Belgrade Arbat”, starts from Terasiye Square and rests in Kalemegdan. Here are concentrated tourist-oriented shops, restaurants and hotels of the city. Nevertheless, the street deserves attention, be sure to take a walk along it, look into the passage of Nikola Pasic.
Museum of Nikola Tesla (Muzej Nikole Tesle) is interesting only for a guided tour demonstrating various experiences. There is in English, but the time is different every day, depending on the mood of the English-speaking guide. Therefore, it is worth going in and clarifying in advance if you really want to see. Entrance - 500 dinars. The museum is considered one of the most expensive in Belgrade.
If you are a fan of Josip Broz Tito, then you should go to his mausoleum - House of flowers (Josip Broz Tito Mausoleum). The most interesting thing in the mausoleum is, of course, a collection of relay sticks. On May 25, from 1945, the Youth Relay was held annually. Schoolchildren ran around the country with these sticks, the best ran to Belgrade and gave the wand to the marshal. Not far from the mausoleum - FC Partizan stadium. Suddenly you will be interested.
Modern Art Museum - finally opened after years of reconstruction, the museum, which is definitely worth a look. It contains modern Serbian and Yugoslav art, plus - it is a landmark building for the city, which received an award as the best example of modernist architecture of Yugoslavia.
Address: Ušće 10, blok 15
Entrance Cost: 300 dinars, free admission on Wednesdays
Vasily Yakovenko: “It is worth paying attention to the Museum of Science and Technology, especially if you travel with children. The exposition is interactive - it will not be boring. Tip: if you are a couple or a family, ask for a family card (family ticket) - save (300 dinars for all against 200 for each). From other museums, interest may be caused by the Museum of Automobiles ethnographic and grown from a private collection. ”
We recommend crossing the bridge over the Sava and taking a walk along the Danube embankment, having a beer or wine in the ArkaBarka pontoon hostel, and reaching Zemun, once an independent town, which later became the growing area of Belgrade. Here you should definitely climb the Gardosh hill - it offers a beautiful view of the whole old Zemun with bright orange tiled roofs of houses and New Belgrade in the distance.
If you are in the heat and the heat in Belgrade is very difficult, then go to Ada Ciganlija - buses No. 52, 53 or 56 from the Zeleni Venac stop, and from Republic Square - by bus No. 37. In Ada You can rent a catamaran and swim directly from it in an artificial lake, one of the largest in Europe. There is even a nudist beach, suddenly you are a lover!
Vasily Yakovenko: “The island has everything for a good rest: the beach with showers and changing cabins, a barbecue area, sports grounds, wooden tables and picnic benches are all free. And of course, a lot of establishments with nice prices. Ada Tsiganliya is awarded with the “Blue Flag” - the international quality mark of water bodies and beach areas. ”
What to see more
In the afternoon, you can see the building of the Serbian parliament of the Assembly, one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, the church of St. Sava, a monument to Ivo Andric. The latter is recommended to see those traveling further, in the direction of Bosnia, to the famous bridge on the Drina River in the city of Visegrad. The bridge is the protagonist of Andrich’s most famous work “The Bridge across the Drina”. It is also worth going past the 1999 NATO Ministry of Defense buildings bombed by NATO.
Vasily Yakovenko: “Now these buildings are actively taken up: demolished and reconstructed. So in the near future there will be fewer reminders of those events. ”
Vasily Yakovenko: “I recommend a day stroll along the promenade from the pink alleys of Dorchol through the monumental Yugoslav building“ Danube Flower ”(now there is a fitness center) to its new part Sava Promenada. If you are in Belgrade for more than two days, you can go to Mount Avala on the outskirts of Belgrade. It’s worth going up to the viewing platform of the TV tower or just having a picnic. ”
In Belgrade, you should not count on him. You will not find any rare brands here, except that the prices are slightly lower than their Russian counterparts. If, nevertheless, there is no way without it, then head to Ušće, a shopping center right behind Brankov bridge. It is the largest in Belgrade. Fans of exclusive and designer items are advised to visit the Čumićevo sokače quarter, aka Belgrade Design District.
Vasily Yakovenko: “Created on the model of similar quarters in the fashionable capitals of the world, the Belgrade Design District combines about 30 shops and workshops with goods of young Serbian brands who prefer to create a unique product with an individual approach. Here you can get designer clothes and shoes, jewelry, home decoration and cosmetics. The hospitable atmosphere of the place creates comfort and adds pleasure to shopping. Most designers act as sellers and are always happy to speak with you. ”
Hotspot on Cetinjska
Take a walk along Skadarskaya Street, feel the Balkan flavor, but don’t go anywhere: this street is only for tourists - you can include not only a mountain of bread that you didn’t order, but also a washing of the monument to Mikhail Obrenovich. Therefore, turn off the street onto Cetinjska and look for house 15 (Cetinjska 15). Here you will find the answer why some call Belgrade the new Berlin.
The BIP brewery complex has long been a thorn in the eye of the Bohemian quarter Skadarliya, until one by one bars, restaurants and discos began to open in it. Now this is the most relevant place of Belgrade-2017: there are already several dozen bars. In one you will be able to play pinball alone, in the other you will be pushed for five minutes to the bar and even longer back, in the third live concert, in the fourth poured craft beer, etc.
We recommend you to come there, having thoroughly reinforced yourself, with cash and the address of your hotel written on your hand: the Serbs have fun until the last, and have no doubt: you will be part of this fun.
Vasily Yakovenko: “The main fun, of course, is in the space between the bars on the street. In general, on the streets of Belgrade, you can often stumble upon some kind of party and easily become part of it: the atmosphere is always friendly! For some time, the institutions were ordered to cut out music at exactly 11:00 p.m. so as not to disturb the neighbors from sleeping. However, the movement continues without music. ”
Vasily Yakovenko: “The party center on Tsetinsky and the city’s most hipster establishment is the Zaokret bar. It has been crammed to failure almost all week, on weekends due to lack of free places, a good half of young people are forced to shift at the entrance. Freelancers take tables during the day, chamber concerts in the evenings, but more often DJ parties. What else is Zaokret good for: there is a large selection of beer, including local craft, at very affordable prices. ”
This quarter on the Sava embankment was popular until Cetinjska, but now it is becoming a victim of gentrification - the once factory district with its favorite bars, old two-three-story buildings is being actively rebuilt: food trucks, bicycle paths, wine on the embankment and expensive real estate - this is what Savamalu expects in the foreseeable the future.
In the meantime, you should go to Deli 57 bar (in the afternoon - a small restaurant with bagels, in the evening - a bar for everyone living in the neighborhood) or in Prohibicija (great cocktails). Many bars in the area had to close, and they just moved to Cetinjska Street (read above).
Vasily Yakovenko: “After the closure of the creative hub Mikser House (it moves to Sarajevo and is due to open in September 2017, Belgrade promises to return in 2018), around which everything revolved in Savamal, KC Grad is responsible for the alternative culture this quarter. It hosts exhibitions, lectures, concerts and other events. ”
You are in Belgrade for the first time, and fashionable establishments with a crowd of young people do not suit you. Then you need to go to Rafting - the embankment of Sava or the Danube with lots of clubs and bars on pontoons. Order brandy everywhere and report that you are from Russia. The musical accompaniment of such an evening is a Serbian turbofolk, an explosive mixture of pop music and Turkish tunes. A fun evening is guaranteed.
Vasily Yakovenko: “In fact, not all alloys are kafans on water. There are also modern ones with a pleasant design, good music and atmosphere in general. For example, Pristan: sitting down with a cocktail in a sunbed, you feel like on the sea coast, plus the views of the sunset from here are simply unbelievable. ”
Cinema on the roof
Vasily Yakovenko: “In the time of Yugoslavia, Zvezda was the main cinema of the city. In the 1990s, it was not up to the movies, and he was abandoned. The building was empty for more than 20 years, until a group of enthusiasts captured it. Now here they are turning various cult films virtually illegally. The cinema is located on the roof under the open sky. You can come with your drinks and snacks. Admission is 100 dinars, sometimes free. Check out the current session schedule here. ”
Address: Terazije 40
The Balkans have a vibrant and dynamic scene, the main representative of which is the Serbian brewery Kabinet. It was founded in 2014 by a married couple and is now the locomotive of brewing the entire region.
Majstor za pivo
Look for the cheapest and freshest Kabinet beer in Majstor za pivo - Kabinet residences, where you can also meet Bronimir and Kosara - the founders of our beloved Balkan brewery (favorites - Vertigo and Pop My Visnya). A very large selection, topical varieties on cranes. Also find a beer here Uteha - it shows the face of one of the creators of the Perito Burrito project!
Address: Žorža Klemansoa 18
Samo Pivo is a huge pub in the city center with a quality beer card. Cards are not accepted, only dinars can be paid. A lot of space and a large selection of Balkan varieties, as well as European and American. By evening, the smoke is rocking and it is difficult to find a place. Despite all this, the bar is at least not bad.
Address: Balkanska 13
Here you can always not only have a tasty meal, but also drink fresh Kaš beer - the second most famous Serbian craft brewery.
Address: Simina 5
Secret bars and apartment bars
In Belgrade, the culture of secret bars right in the apartments is very popular. All you need is to know which door to open or which numbers to dial on the intercom. In such bars, most often you will find inexpensive alcohol, pleasant music and the absence of a large number of tourists - these bars are for local youth and sympathizers.
A bar on the top floor in a half-abandoned house of the bohemian district Vračar. There is always pleasant music, cheap alcohol, only Serbian youth. Chillton used to be a hostel - the walls still bear TripAdvisor and Hostelworld stickers.
Address: Katanićeva 7
Club Svetskih Putnika
It is perhaps the easiest way to get into this bar - a small signboard of the “Federal Association of Yugoslav Travelers” hangs on the gates of the house - initially it was a place where they gathered and exchanged experiences. In fact, this is a beautiful bar, which even has a courtyard. All the decorations are gifts from travelers from distant lands. The place is very pleasant for quiet gatherings and socializing.
Address: Bulevar despota Stefana 7, tip from TripAdvisor: “You need to go into the porch, get into the corridor hidden behind a massive iron door, go through impossible back streets and go down the stairs.”
Vasily Yakovenko: “One of the most interesting places in the city. An old mansion with a rich family history turned the heiress into a cozy cafe. In winter, there is a disco bar in its basement, which can be reached through the "rabbit mink", rolling down a spiral hill. In summer, a courtyard with swings, a tree house and an inflatable pool is open. Everything is very nice. ”
Address: Stevana Sremca 5
Bivši barUPD: Closed for 2018
Vasily Yakovenko: “The bar is without sign and is located in a one-room apartment. Very crowded. To catch an empty seat, you must arrive early. We loved the place with its atmosphere, reminiscent of modern East Berlin. Minimal techno plays here and hipsters hang out, and the bar itself is a kind of chill-out branch of the main Balkan rave club Drugstore.
Address: The “former” bar can be found on Kosovska street in house number 32, the plate “Lawyer” as a guide.
Vasily Yakovenko: “In the historic center of Belgrade, at the intersection of Gospodar Jevremova and Princess Kneginje Ljubice, there is a seemingly abandoned old house. And you won’t guess that inside is a bar club with a super-positive atmosphere. In the afternoon he works in light mode, from nine in the evening noisy parties and concerts begin, one way or another connected with jazz, funk and disco. The painted walls of the rooms speak of a musical orientation. I tried to find out more information from the owners about their bar, but they told me: “All you need to know: funk is our style.”
The list of Belgrade flat bars can be continued for a long time, we talked about the most interesting for our taste, the rest can be found here. Vasily constantly monitors new places and adds to the list.
Belgrade is the club capital of the Balkans and one of in Eastern Europe. European students massively come to Belgrade for the weekend to cheaply and angrily break away. There are a lot of night clubs, but not all of them deserve attention. Here are a couple of the most worthy.
Vasily Yakovenko: “A huge techno club in the industrial area of the city. It is located under the roof of a former industrial building: either a factory or a warehouse. The atmosphere of cult raves of the 1990s. A minimum of attention to the interior and details (except that the crucified neon Jesus above the entrance and flowers in the ruined toilet), the maximum - to the musical content. Drugstore stably flashes in the lists of the best night clubs in Europe. "
Address: Bulevar Despota Stefana 115 (go down from the boulevard to the Danube along the bridge and turn right after 50 meters).
Vasily Yakovenko: “Night club on rafting. Once it was a strip club (even the poles remained), now fashionable DJs from around the world play here.Unlike most of its water counterparts, “20/44” operates year-round regardless of weather conditions. In summer, dances take place on the open deck until dawn, in winter people hang out under the deck. From the side "20/44" there is a beautiful view of the night Kalemegdan. "
Addresses do not have a place. Just cross Brankov bridge towards New Belgrade and turn right. Along the Sava there are many alloys, one of them is “20/44”.
Vasily Yakovenko: “For traditional cuisine, head to the Zavichak restaurant.” Order Shopska salad (šopska salata), small chopped meat cutlets with ćevapi onions, kachamak (this is a Serbian variation of polenta) and, of course, brandy. The prices here are affordable and the portions are huge. ”
Address: Gavrila principlea 77
Vasily Yakovenko: “Authentic kafana with emphasis on fish dishes on the menu. Locals come here for the famous chorba fish, which is simply divine and costs only 150 dinars. I advise you to try fish paprikash (a kind of fish goulash). And also there are very cheap desserts. ”
Address: Baba Višnjina 34
Mala fabrika ukusa
A popular place with Serbian cuisine in Belgrade. Large selection of meat, huge portions and a beautiful summer terrace. It is best to go here on weekdays, at the weekend it is difficult to find a free table. Be sure to try the local lamb, and if you came by company, then order a tasting set with meat "Gypsy dance" (Ciganski ples).
Address: Nebojsina 49a
Restaurants Radost Fina Kuhinjica and Gnezdo organic - Editor's Choice. Radost Fina Kuhinjica does not even have a sign, so it’s quite difficult to understand that there is a restaurant here. The interior and location make a great impression on the guests, therefore, having got here, I want to stay here for the whole evening. The menu is mainly vegetarian, with a focus on Israeli cuisine. Be sure to try all the snacks, they will offer you excellent Serbian wine. As for the basics of dishes, it is best to consult with the waiter, they will tell you in detail about each.
Address: Pariska 3
Gnezdo organic - A modern restaurant in the center of Belgrade. Serbs love simple cuisine, so in the city it is difficult to find establishments that would experiment with tastes and ingredients. "Nest" is just such a place. An interesting menu in which to try absolutely everything. The concept of the establishment is to use organic and seasonal products, so be sure to check with the waiter what is special about the chef today. Our favorites: tofu steaks with almonds and cranberries and chicken kebab with couscous.
Address: Male stepenice 1a
There is a lot of street food in Belgrade. Mostly Serbian dishes are cooked on the streets of the city: pleskavitsy, chevapchichi and butchers (pancakes). But there are several unusual places for the city. One of them - Tel Aviv Hummus House, a tiny street cafe with Israeli cuisine. Here you can find excellent falafel, delicious hummus, pitta with chicken and meat.
Address: Carice milice 3
Vasily Yakovenko: “Another alternative to pleskavitse is Italian pasta. Antipasto is a very small place with a couple of tables, however the presentation is like in a restaurant. There is a large selection of not only pasta, but Italian cheeses and prosciutto. A delicious pasta plus a glass of wine will be released in the region of 500 dinars. ”
Address: Topličin venac 12
Walking along the Knes Mikhailov Street, be sure to turn onto Vuka Karadžića Street and find a restaurant with the Moritz Eis sign. There is definitely the best ice cream in the Balkans, and according to some versions it is among the top best in the world, the only one from Eastern Europe. Back in 2007, the Austrian Moritz Fried first came to Belgrade (on a bicycle). Then he rode around the world, got tired of working as a banker and returned to the capital of Serbia to produce natural ice cream. Moritz was very impressed with the number of natural and tasty products from which you can make ice cream in Serbia, and began to experiment. Sometimes such unusual flavors appear on the menu as tomato and basil, rice with cinnamon, arugula and pineapple, beets and hibiscus, pumpkin.Moritz Eis ice cream can also be found in Montenegro, Hungary, Romania and Chile.
Vasily Yakovenko: “Ferdinand Knedle on Gavrila Principa 58 (Gavrila Principa 58) serves dumplings - a dish that is more popular in the north of Eastern Europe, mostly found in the Balkans in a sweet version - a ball of mashed potatoes and flour filled with plums or apricots. At Ferdinand, they showed imagination and prepare dumplings not only with plums and apricots, but also with coconut, chocolate, raspberries, pistachios, poppy seeds, there are even several unsweetened options - with cheese and quench. Prices are very, very nice: from 80 to 160 dinars apiece. ”
Coffee in Belgrade
In most cafes in Belgrade you will come across extremely bad coffee - roasted, strong and very tasteless. Turkish coffee is traditionally prepared in the Balkans, which is very specific and not everyone likes it. True, a huge plus is that in every institution a huge glass of water will be served to a cup of coffee. In Belgrade, there are several coffee houses where you can really find good coffee. Not only that, there are even several coffee houses that roast grain on their own and offer alternative types of coffee brewing (Kemex, Hario and Lungo). Here is a list of these cafes: Uzitak (editorial favorite), Zrno, the Kafeterikha network.
Vasily Yakovenko: “At Dobračina 59b (Dobračina 59b), in a room that looks like a garage, there is an excellent bru bar, where local connoisseurs of black drink specially gather for a dose of caffeine. Here, coffee is treated like a sommelier to wine: after brewing, the barista sniffs the result several times and even tries it - making sure of the quality, he serves it to the client. ”
Mostly, you can rent a bike in the recreational areas - New Belgrade or Ada Ciganlia.
Vasily Yakovenko: “Prices: 200 dinars per hour, 500 dinars per day. There is also a rental directly on the promenade near Kalemegdan. I recommend renting a bike for a trip to Zemun or Ada Ciganlia. It’s uncomfortable to ride a bicycle in the old part of the city. ”
Parking in Belgrade
There may be problems with parking if you live in the center - be sure to check with the hotels and hosts on Airbnb for availability, ask if this garage (many have underground garages even in old houses in the city center) or just parking near the house. Free public parking near the house is always 90% occupied. Parking in the center is paid, distributed in zones (red, yellow, green).
The main disadvantage is the inability to leave the car for more than an hour, two or three in a row, according to color. By reference, you can study the specifics and find a paid garage.